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It’s November so it’s time to bust out the Christmas Decorations! I’m starting early this year and I’m determined to finish everything before December. I know that’s ambitious but we all need goals! If you loved our Rustic Farmhouse Pumpkins you’re going to Love our Rustic Farmhouse Ornaments.
This is the first pattern to release in my Rustic Farmhouse Collection. Each design is worked up in bulky yarn or holding together 2 strands of worsted weight. That means they work up quick and can easily be completed before Christmas. You only need a small amount of yarn for each ornament but buy lots because I guarantee you’ll be whipping them up like hot cakes!
Display your ornaments in a bowl or decorate your Christmas Tree. This makes a fun project for kids too. Watch my new Beginner How to Crochet Series to get started on YouTube
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Yarn Requirements:
Bernat Softee Chunky
Bernat Softee Chunky Yarn
100% Acrylic (3.5oz/100g/108yds/99m)
Shown in (MC) Grey Heather, (A) White, (B) Black, (C) Wine
*1 Ball (C) makes approximately 4 solid colored ornaments. When alternating starting color plaid ornaments 1 ball of (MC)-(B) will make approximately 12 ornaments
Finished Measurements: 4 x 4″ round
Crochet Hook Requirements:
US K/10.5 (6.5mm) or size needed to obtain gauge
Additional Supplies:
- Yarn needle
- Twine
- Polyester Fibrefill
Gauge:
5 sts and 2.5 rows equal to 2″ with 6.5mm crochet hook in pattern
Abbreviations:
Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
Hdc – Half Double Crochet
Rep – Repeat
Sk – Skip
Sl St – Slip Stitch
Sp(s) – Space(s)
St(s) – Stitch(es)
( ) – Work step in parentheses in indicated stitch
Instructions:
Notes: Alternate starting color for variety. Shown starting with grey, white and black. Pattern is written for beginning with grey. When changing colors, work last yarn over of last stitch with next color. Don’t cut colors pick up at join as you go.
Faux plaid Ornament
Round 1: With MC magic circle, ch 3 (not included as a stitch), work 12 dc in the ring, pull ring tight, sl st in first dc to join—12 sts.
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc here and throughout), work 1 dc in first st, *work 2 dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts. Change to A, don’t cut MC.
Pattern
Round 3: Ch 3, work 1 dc in next 2 sts, ch 3, sk next 3 sts, *work 1 dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 3, sk next 3 sts; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts. Change to B, don’t cut A.
Round 4: Ch 3, sk over 2 dc sts, working over next ch-3 sp, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below, *ch 3, sk next 3 sts, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below; rep from * around, sl st in first ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts. Change to MC, don’t cut B.
Round 5: Ch 3, sk first st, working over next ch-3 sp, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 skd sts 2 rows below, ch 3, sk next 3 sts, *work 1 dc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below, ch 3, sk next 3 sts; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts. Change to A, don’t cut MC.
Round 6: Ch 3, sk over 2 dc sts, working over next ch-3 sp, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below, *ch 3, sk next 3 sts, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below; rep from * around, sl st in first ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts. Change to B, don’t cut A.
Round 7: Ch 3, sk first st, working over next ch-3 sp, work 1 dc in each of the next 2 skd sts 2 rows below, ch 3, sk next 3 sts, *work 1 dc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below, ch 3, sk next 3 sts; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts. Change to MC, cut A and B.
Round 8: Ch 3, sk over 2 dc sts, working over next ch-3 sp, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below, *ch 3, sk next 3 sts, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below; rep from * around, sl st in first ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts.
Decrease
Round 9: Ch 2, sk first st, working over next ch-3 sp, work 1 hdc in each of the next 2 skd sts 2 rows below, sk next st, work 1 sc in next st, sk next st, *work 1 hdc in each of the next 3 skd sts 2 rows below, sk next st, work 1 sc in next st, sk next st; rep from * around, sl st in 2nd ch of ch 2 to join—16 sts. Weave in inside ends and stuff with polyester fibrefill.
Round 10: Ch 1, sk next st, *work 1 sc in next st, sk next st; rep from * around, sl st in ch 1 to join—8 sts. Fasten off leaving a tail for weaving. With yarn needle weave through the front loop only of each st around, pull tight. Weave in ends.
Weave a piece of twine through top of ornament and tie in a bow.
Solid Ornament
Round 1: With C magic circle, ch 3 (not included as a stitch), work 12 dc in the ring, pull ring tight, sl st in first dc to join—12 sts.
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc here and throughout), work 1 dc in first st, *work 2 dc in each st around, sl st in 3rd ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts.
Rounds 3-6: Ch 3, Work 1 dc in next and each st around, sl st in 3rd ch of ch 3 to join—24 sts. Weave in inside ends and stuff with polyester fibrefill.
Decrease
Round 7: Ch 3, sk next st, *work 1 dc in next st, sk next st; rep from * around, sl st in 3rd ch of ch 3 to join—12 sts.
Round 8: Ch 1, sk next st, *work 1 sc in next st, sk next st; rep from * around, sl st in ch 1 to join—6 sts. Fasten off leaving a tail for weaving. With yarn needle weave through the front loop only of each st around, pull tight. Weave in ends.
Weave a piece of twine through top of ornament and tie in a bow.
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This pattern is designed by Michelle Moore of MJ’s Off The Hook Designs Inc, based in Lakefield, Ontario, Canada. Your go-to source for modern, easy crochet patterns. Published on November 2nd, 2018.
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Michelle
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