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There is something so special about designing a piece that evolves throughout the process, and the Saltwater Shell Beach Dress is exactly that.



Project Overview
The Saltwater Shell Beach Dress is a flattering, beach-ready design featuring a contoured fit, adjustable drawstring waist, and feminine shell stitch details. The shaped bodice and fitted skirt create a figure-flattering silhouette, while the button-up closure provides a secure fit and makes the dress easy to wear. Perfect as a beach cover-up or casual summer dress, this versatile design is sure to become a warm-weather favourite. A full video tutorial is included to guide you through every step of the process.
Skill level: Intermediate
Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X )
Finished Fit: Fitted
Yarn Weight: Sport Weight #2
Yarn: Katia Fair Cotton
Hook Sizes: 3.5 mm
Construction: Top-down, rows and rounds
Video Tutorial: https://youtu.be/r_4XSXRCBB4
I’ll be honest… this dress almost looked completely different.
The very first sample I made was the colourful version using Lion Brand Mandala String. It was worked entirely in the round with a solid strapless bodice. I absolutely loved how it looked. It was bright, fun, and perfect for summer.
Then I started wearing it.
That’s when I discovered the design flaw.
Because the bodice was completely closed, every time I pulled the dress on and off, the upper edge stretched more than I wanted. It still looked beautiful, but I knew it wasn’t the experience I wanted for you.
Back to the drawing board.
For the second sample, I redesigned the entire bodice using Katia Fair Cotton and added a button-up opening. It completely transformed the fit. Now the bodice keeps its shape beautifully while making the dress much easier to slip on and off.
It was one of those moments where the practical solution actually made the design even better.
That said…
If you absolutely love the clean look of the original colorful sample, you can still achieve that appearance. Simply work the pattern as written and wear the button closure at the back instead of the front. You’ll keep all of the benefits of the button opening while maintaining the seamless look from the front.
Sometimes the smallest design changes make the biggest difference.
I hope this becomes one of those summer projects you reach for year after year.
Why You’ll Love This Pattern
- Free written crochet pattern
- Step-by-step YouTube video tutorial
- Sizes XS through 5X
- Figure-flattering shaping through the bust, waist and hips
- Adjustable drawstring waist
- Beautiful shell stitch skirt
- Top-down construction with minimal finishing
- Perfect as a beach cover-up or casual summer dress
- Designed using lightweight cotton yarn for warm weather
Video Tutorial
Part of the Salt + Sol Collection
The Saltwater Shell Beach Dress is one of nine coordinating crochet patterns in my Salt + Sol Collection, designed for sunny days, beach vacations, and warm weather.
The collection includes:
- Solstice Vest
- Solea Cardigan
- Solara Sun Hat
- Selene Top
- Solana Circle Cover Up
- Sienna Shell Stitch Poncho
- Salt + Sand Beach Bag
- Saltwater Beach Dress
Whether you’re planning a vacation or simply love crocheting wearable pieces, these designs are made to mix and match beautifully.

Yarn
Sport Weight #2, 170 yds/155 m/50 g/1.75 oz, 100% Organic Cotton. Shown in size Small in White (1)
Fingering Weight #1, 350 yds/320 m/100 g/3.5 oz, 100% Acrylic. Shown in Disco.
Crochet Hook
US E/4 (3.5 mm) or sizes needed to obtain the gauge
Materials
Gauge
Solid: 20 sts and 11 rows = 4″ [10cm] in dc
Shell Stitch Pattern: 3.5 shells and 13 rows = 4″ (10 cm)

Sizing and Yarn Amounts
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
The bodice is designed with negative ease, meaning it should fit snugly while comfortably stretching around your upper bust.
Choose the size based on your upper bust measurement for the intended fit.
Upper Bust (in)
31 to 32 | 33 to 34 | 35 to 36 | 37 to 39 | 40 to 42 | 43 to 45 | 46 to 48 | 49 to 52 | 53 to 56
Finished Upper Bust (in)
26 | 28 | 30 | 32 | 34 | 38 | 40 | 42 | 46
YARN AMOUNTS
50 g Balls
7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16
100 g Balls
3 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 7 | 8
Approximate Yardage
1,040 | 1,215 | 1,390 | 1,565 | 1,740 | 2,090 | 2,265 | 2,440 | 2,615 yards
Taking the time to check your gauge before beginning will ensure your finished dress fits as intended. Even small differences in gauge can significantly affect the fit of a fitted garment like this one.
Abbrevations
Bpdc – Back Post Double Crochet
Ch – Chain
Dc – Double Crochet
Dc2tog – Double Crochet Two Together
Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
Incr – Increase
MC – Main Colour
Pm – Place Marker
Rep – Repeat
RS – Right Side
Sc – Single Crochet
Sk – Skip
Sl St – Slip Stitch
Sp(s) – Space(s)
St(s) – Stitch(es)
WS – Wrong Side
( ) – Work step in parentheses in the indicated stitch
[ ] – Work step in brackets the number of times indicated
Specials Stitches
Edge Stitch (edge st): Insert hook into the second bar of the previous stitch, insert hook into the next row end or stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, pull through the first loop on hook, yarn over and pull through the remaining 2 loops.
Double Crochet Two Together (dc2tog): Yarn over, insert hook into indicated stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Yarn over, insert hook into next indicated stitch and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 3 loops on hook.
Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice.
Back Post Double Crochet (bpdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops twice.
Shell Stitch (shell st): Work 5 dc in the indicated stitch or space.
Yarn Substitutes
When substituting the recommended yarn, choose one that meets the pattern gauge and has a similar yardage-to-weight ratio. To compare yarns, use this simple formula: Yards ÷ Grams = Yards per Gram
For example:
Lion Brand Mandala String: 350 yds ÷ 100 g = 3.50 yds/g
Katia Fair Cotton: 170 yds ÷ 50 g = 3.40 yds/g
Yarns with a similar fibre content and a comparable yards-per-gram ratio will generally produce a similar fabric. Always make and block a gauge swatch before beginning.
Katia Fair Cotton Diverso • 678 yds/200 g (100% cotton) = 3.40 yds/g
Katia Fair Cotton Arlequin • 678 yds/200 g (100% cotton) = 3.40 yds/g
Hawthorne Fingering • 357 yds/100 g (80% superwash wool, 20% nylon) = 3.57 yds/g
Premier Cotton Fair • 317 yds/100 g (52% cotton, 48% acrylic) = 3.17 yds/g
Willow Yarns Farmhouse Cotton • 360 yds/100 g (100% cotton) = 3.60 yds/g
Construction
Worked from the top down, beginning with the bodice worked flat in rows. The bodice is shaped through the bust and waist for a flattering fit, then joined to work in the round. An adjustable drawstring waist adds shaping before the skirt is increased and worked in the round in the shell stitch pattern. Finished with a button-up back closure for easy wear. A step-by-step video tutorial is included on YouTube and demonstrates the size Small.

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Pattern
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
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Pattern Note: The sample shown in Lion Brand Mandala String was originally worked in the round without a button closure. The solid-color Katia Fair Cotton version, as written in this pattern, includes a button band to make the dress easier to put on and take off while maintaining a fitted bodice. The button band can be worn at either the front or back of the dress. If preferred, you may join the bodice after the foundation row and work entirely in the round, omitting the button band and buttonhole instructions.
The pattern is written for the smallest size, with larger sizes shown in parentheses ( ). A step-by-step video tutorial is included and demonstrates the small size.
Bodice – Band
Foundation Row (RS):
Ch 131 (141, 151, 161, 171, 191, 201, 211, 231), working in the back bump of the chain, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn—130 (140, 150, 160, 170, 190, 200, 210, 230) sts.
Row 1 (WS):
Ch 1 (does not count as a st here and throughout), dc in each st across, turn—130 (140, 150, 160, 170, 190, 200, 210, 230) sts.
Row 2:
Ch 1, 1 dc in first st, fpdc around next st, *bpdc around next st, fpdc around next st; rep from * across, replacing last st with dc, turn—130 (140, 150, 160, 170, 190, 200, 210, 230) sts.
Fit Tip: The upper bodice is designed with negative ease and will stretch to fit comfortably around the upper bust. The completed band measures approximately 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42, 46) in (66, 71, 76, 81.5, 86.5, 96.5, 101.5, 106.5, 117) cm before stretching. Try the band around your upper bust before continuing. It should fit snugly while still stretching comfortably. If a different fit is desired, adjust your starting chain accordingly.
Row 3:
Ch 1, 1 dc in first st, bpdc around next st, *fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st; rep from * across, ending with dc in last st, turn—130 (140, 150, 160, 170, 190, 200, 210, 230) sts.
Bodice – Body
Row 1 (Incr):
Ch 1, dc in each of the next 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 22) sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in each of the next 25 (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 39, 41, 45) sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * 3 more times, dc in each of the last 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23) sts, turn—135 (145, 155, 165, 175, 195, 205, 215, 235) sts.
Rows 2-3:
Ch 1, 1 dc in each st across, turn—135 (145, 155, 165, 175, 195, 205, 215, 235) sts.
Row 4 (Incr):
Ch 1, dc in each of the next 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23) sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in each of the next 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42, 46) sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * 3 more times, dc in each of the last 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23) sts, turn—140 (150, 160, 170, 180, 200, 210, 220, 240) sts.
Rows 5-15:
Ch 1, 1 dc in each st across, turn—140 (150, 160, 170, 180, 200, 210, 220, 240) sts.
Row 16 (decr):
Ch 1, dc in each of the next 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23) sts, dc2tog, *(dc in each of the next 26 (28, 30, 32, 34, 38, 40, 42, 46) sts, dc2tog); repeat from * 3 more times, dc in each of the last 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23) sts, turn—135 (145, 155, 165, 175, 195, 205, 215, 235) sts.
Rows 17-18:
Ch 1, 1 dc in each st across, turn—135 (145, 155, 165, 175, 195, 205, 215, 235) sts.
Row 19 (decr):
Ch 1, dc in each of the next 12 (13, 14, 15, 16, 18, 19, 20, 22) sts, dc2tog, *(dc in each of the next 25 (27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 39, 41, 45) sts, dc2tog); repeat from * 3 more times, dc in each of the last 13 (14, 15, 16, 17, 19, 20, 21, 23) sts, turn—130 (140, 150, 160, 170, 190, 200, 210, 230) sts.
Row 20:
Ch 1, 1 dc in each st across, turn—130 (140, 150, 160, 170, 190, 200, 210, 230) sts. Fasten off.
Button Band
With the right side facing, create a slip knot and join the yarn to the top-left corner of the bodice.
Row 1:
Sc in the corner st, work 2 edge sts evenly along the side of each dc row to the bottom edge, turn.
Row 2:
Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.
Row 3:
Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Buttonhole Band
With the right side facing, join the yarn to the lower-right corner of the bodice.
Row 1:
Sc in the corner st, work 2 edge sts evenly along the side of each dc row to the top edge, do not turn.
Place 6 markers evenly spaced along the button band, leaving equal spacing between each marker and the top and bottom edges. These markers indicate the buttonhole placements.
Row 2:
Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across until reaching a marker, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, *sc in each st across until reaching the next marker, ch 2, skip next 2 sts; repeat from * until all buttonholes have been made, sc in remaining sts across.
Row 3:
Ch 1, work 1 sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp across,
Once you reach the top edge of the bodice, turn and work across the top foundation row, placing 1 sc between each stitch across. Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Optional: If additional support is desired along the top edge, work sl sts instead of sc across the top edge. This creates a tighter finish.
Sew buttons opposite the buttonholes and button the bodice closed before proceeding to the next section.
Join to Work in the Round
With the buttons centred, lay the bodice flat and identify one side edge. Create a slip knot and join yarn at the side of the bodice.
Round 1 (RS):
Ch 1, dc in each st around. When you reach the button band, overlap the two bands, then work through both layers, working 2 dc across the bands. Continue working dc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first dc, turn—132 (142, 152, 162, 172, 192, 202, 212, 232) sts.
Rounds 2-3:
Ch 1, 1 dc in each st around, turn—132 (142, 152, 162, 172, 192, 202, 212, 232) sts. Last round don’t turn.
Drawstring Round
Round 4 (RS):
Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in first st, *ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st; repeat from * around, ch 1, skip last st, sl st in first dc to join— 132 (142, 152, 162, 172, 192, 202, 212, 232) sts including ch-1 sps.
Round 5:
Ch 1, dc in first st, dc in next ch-1 sp, *dc in next dc, dc in next ch-1 sp; repeat from * around, sl st in first dc to join— 132 (142, 152, 162, 172, 192, 202, 212, 232) sts.
Hip Increases
Round 6:
Ch 1, dc in each of the next 13 (13, 14, 13, 14, 15, 14, 15, 20) sts, 2 dc in next st, *dc in each of the next 13 (13, 14, 13, 14, 15, 14, 15, 20) sts, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 9) more times, dc in each of the last 6 (2, 2, 8, 7, 0, 7, 4, 1) sts, sl st in first dc to join— 141 (152, 162, 173, 183, 204, 215, 225, 243) sts.
Round 7:
Ch 1, 1 dc in each st around, sl st in first dc to join— 141 (152, 162, 173, 183, 204, 215, 225, 243) sts.
Round 8:
Ch 1, dc in each of the next 14 (14, 15, 14, 15, 16, 15, 16, 21) sts, 2 dc in next st, *(dc in each of the next 14 (14, 15, 14, 15, 16, 15, 16, 21) sts, 2 dc in next st); repeat from * 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 9) more times, dc in each of the last 6 (2, 2, 8, 7, 0, 7, 4, 1) sts, sl st in first dc to join—150 (162, 172, 184, 194, 216, 228, 238, 254) sts.
Round 9:
Ch 1, 1 dc in each st around, sl st in first dc to join— 150 (162, 172, 184, 194, 216, 228, 238, 254) sts.
Round 10:
Ch 1, dc in each of the next 15 (15, 16, 17, 16, 17, 18, 17, 22) sts, 2 dc in next st, *(dc in each of the next 15 (15, 16, 17, 16, 17, 18, 17, 22) sts, 2 dc in next st); repeat from * 7 (8, 8, 9, 9, 10, 11, 11, 9) more times, dc in each of the last 6 (2, 2, 4, 7, 0, 0, 4, 1) sts, sl st in first dc to join—159 (172, 182, 194, 205, 228, 240, 251, 265) sts.
Round 11:
Ch 1, dc in each of the next 16 (20, 17, 18, 17, 18, 19, 18, 23) sts, 2 dc in next st, *(dc in each of the next 16 (20, 17, 18, 17, 18, 19, 18, 23) sts, 2 dc in next st); repeat from * 7 (6, 8, 8, 9, 10, 10, 11, 9) more times, dc in each of the last 6 (4, 2, 4, 7, 0, 0, 4, 1) sts, sl st in first dc to join—168 (180, 192, 204, 216, 240, 252, 264, 276) sts.
Shell Stitch Pattern
Round 1:
Ch 1, sc in first st, sk next 2 sts, shell st in next st, sk next 2 sts, *sc in next st, sk next 2 sts, shell st in next st, sk next 2 sts; repeat from * around, sl st in first sc to join—28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42, 44, 46) shells.
Round 2:
Ch 3, 2 dc in first st (half shell made), sk next 2 sts, sc in next st (centre st of shell from previous round), sk next 2 sts, *shell st in next sc, sk next 2 sts, sc in next st, sk next 2 sts; repeat from * around, 2 dc in sl st join of previous round, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 to join—28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42, 44, 46) shells.
Round 3:
Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, sk 2 sts, shell st in next st, sk 2 sts, *sc in next st, sk 2 sts, shell st in next st, sk 2 sts; rep from * around, sl st in first sc to join— 28 (30, 32, 34, 36, 40, 42, 44, 46) shells.
Rounds 4-44:
Repeat Rounds 2 and 3, ending on a repeat of Round 2. Fasten off and weave in tails. Steam block the dress to prevent the bottom edge from curling.
Tassels
Make 2 tassels for the waist tie, or 4 tassels if making an additional tie for the neckline.
For each tassel, cut 30 strands measuring 10″ (25.5 cm) long, plus 2 additional strands. Hold the strands together and fold them in half. Using one of the additional strands, tie tightly around the folded centre point, leaving long tails. This strand will be used to attach the tassel to the cord belt.
Using the second additional strand, tie tightly around the tassel approximately 1″ (2.5 cm) below the folded top to create the tassel head. Wrap the yarn several times around the tassel head, knot securely, and weave the ends down through the tassel to hide them. Trim evenly if needed. Set aside.
Optional: Add decorative beads to the attachment strands before securing the tassels to the cord belt.
Cord Belt
To make the cord belt, work with two balls of yarn and hold both strands together throughout. Measure and set aside a yarn tail approximately 192 (200, 208, 216, 224, 240, 256, 272, 288)” long. Place a slip knot on your hook.
*Yarn over with the yarn tail, yarn over with the working yarn, pull through all loops on the hook. Repeat from * until the cord measures approximately 48 (50, 52, 54, 56, 60, 64, 68, 72)”. Fasten off and knot tail ends.
Using the attachment strands, tie one tassel securely to one end of the cord belt. Weave the cord through the drawstring round of the dress, centring the cord at the front. Attach the second tassel to the remaining end of the cord belt. If desired, add decorative beads to the attachment strands before securing the tassels.
Optional Neck Tie: Make a second cord belt for the neckline if desired. Locate the centre of the cord and insert the folded loop through the front centre stitch of the bodice. Pull both cord ends through the loop and tighten to secure. Sew a decorative gold button just below the neck tie for a decorative finish, as shown on the Lion Brand Mandala String sample.


